Why Do Merino Wool Prices Vary So Much?

A Guide to Grades, GSM, and What Really Impacts Cost

Merino wool is one of the most versatile fibres you can wear — all year round.

But if you’ve ever wondered why some Merino garments are $50 and others $250, even though both are “100% Merino,” you’re not alone.

Let’s break down what truly determines the quality — and cost — of Merino wool.

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 1. Fineness (Micron)

 The most important factor

Merino wool is graded by fibre diameter, measured in microns (μm) — one micron equals one-thousandth of a millimetre.

The lower the micron, the finer, softer, and more luxurious the wool — and the higher the price.

 For example, 16μm Merino is noticeably softer (and more expensive) than 17.5μm.

 Merino Wool Micron Classification

Finer fibres are also typically longer and smoother. Coarser fibres tend to be shorter, stiffer, and can feel itchy against the skin.

Finer Merino has more delicate surface scales (called cuticle cells), giving it a naturally soft sheen — while coarse wool appears duller and rougher.

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 2. Fabric Weight (GSM)

 More wool = higher cost

GSM stands for grams per square metre. It tells you how dense and heavy the fabric is — and how much wool was used to make it.

 For example, a 16.5μm Merino at 300gsm uses significantly more wool than one at 180gsm — and costs more to produce.

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 3. Spinning Method & Yarn Treatment

Not all yarns are created equal. The way wool is spun and finished affects both performance and price.

• Worsted spinning (smooth, long fibres, high twist) is more expensive than woollen spinning (shorter, loftier fibres).

• Compact spinning, anti-pilling treatment, and superwash finishing (for machine washability) all add to cost.

• Ply count matters too — double-ply yarns (like 2-ply) offer more structure and durability.

 A 17.5μm compact yarn with anti-pilling finish will cost much more than a basic single-ply yarn of the same micron.

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 Yarn Count (e.g. 2/90nm)

Yarn count describes how fine the yarn is. It’s written as:

• The first number = number of plies (strands twisted together)

• The second number = fineness of each strand (higher = finer)

 We use 2/90nm and 2/100nm yarns for our ultrafine Merino —

to create a silky-smooth feel, gentle drape, and natural elasticity — all machine washable.

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 Final Thoughts

So when comparing Merino garments, don’t just look at the label. Look at:

• Micron (softness)

• GSM (weight & warmth)

• Yarn specs (smoothness, durability)

• Finishing (like anti-pilling or superwash)

• Certifications (e.g. RWS, ZQ)

The finer, denser, and better-finished the fabric — the higher the value.

But also, the more comfort and performance you’ll get.

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